A year half over is a cup half full

Today is January 28th, 2011, the exact mid-point of my Fulbright experience. I arrived to Zacatecas on August 28th, five months of books, trips, and meetings ago.  A lot has happened during the past five months. I thought I would share a few thoughts from the mid-term reflection I submitted today to the Institute of International Education.  Reflections are a demanding but very valuable exercise.  I always emerge more focused, more appreciative, and humbled by reviewing the joys and challenges of a part of my life.  A friend once told me that an awareness of time is a fundamental aspect of being human.  I agree, but have learned that there are multiple ways to look at time.  While focusing on the fleeting nature of time can render us depressed and trepid, when we probe our past for growth and challenge, the wheels of time become an engine propelling us into the future.

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I decided to apply for a Fulbright grant to Mexico because I thought the experience would be a meaningful way to follow up on my undergraduate years.  During my four and a half years at the University of Arizona, I learned Spanish, studied migration in southern Mexico, spent a semester in Argentina, and wrote a thesis on the political economy of immigrant remittances.  A Fulbright project in Mexico on microfinance and migration seemed a good way to synthesize these experiences; I could see a new part of Mexico, keep developing my Spanish, and apply the international studies and economics lessons I learned in college.  Looking at the spectrum of my undergraduate experiences and finding a way to apply those experiences was a way to guide that uncertain step forward, beyond the commencement podium with diploma in hand.

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In my Fulbright application, I combined four central goals.  My primary goal is to deepen my understanding of microfinance in Mexico.  Paired with this goal is the desire to learn more about the financial, economic, and developmental aspects of Mexican migration to the United States.  I want to carry out a project that is of value to migrant communities in Zacatecas and the Federación Zacatecana de migrantes en los EEUU (Fedzac).  I measure the value of my project by the potential impact of the ideas and research, thoroughness and integrity of my investigation, and uniqueness of the project among the related literature. I will compile my research into an academic paper, a document for in-house use of Fedzac, and a presentation of my results at Fedzac in May.  Some of my more personal goals include learning about the culture, history, and people of Zacatecas; advance my level of Spanish fluency; and share my Fulbright experience with family and friends through emails, blogs, videos, and music.  On top of all of these, I strive to make my research available and accessible to the wider public.

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Outside of the Development Studies Department, UAZ

     My central motivation in applying for a Fulbright grant was to gain an on the-ground perspective of the economic factors behind Mexican migration to the U.S. and carry out a project that strengthens the economic development of sending regions.  While this motivation has not changed, my project has shifted to match the local needs and opportunities in Zacatecas.  Midway through my grant, my project focus is well refined and has already provided many meaningful cultural experiences, improved my Spanish, and taught me much about Mexico, microfinance, and the nature of research.
     In August, my advisor, Dr. García Zamora, introduced me to Fedzac, the federation of Zacatecan migrant clubs in the U.S., and communicated an opportunity to collaborate with Fedzac on a research project.  Fedzac wanted to explore the possibilities of creating a migrant-funded microfinance bank in Zacatecas, and my professor suggested I make this my research focus.  The opportunity was close to my original interest in financial needs of migrant communities and I eagerly agreed to dedicate my year to this project.
     From August to October, I spent my time reading literature about the global state of microfinance and the microfinance sector in Mexico.  This time was a period of focusing my project and deepening my knowledge of microfinance and migration.  In November, I attended the People’s Global Action conference on Migration and Development in Mexico City.  At this conference, I met with the president of Fedzac, Efraín Jimenez, and connected with Leila Rispens-Noel, a Senior Advisor at a global microfinance network.  Following the conference, I accompanied Leila and Efraín on a trip to visit 3x1 projects in Zacatecas. This trip was a turning point towards realizing my second goal: to shape and carry out a project of direct benefit to migrant communities in Zacatecas.  This trip to a rural area was also a unique opportunity to experience the ‘charro’ culture of Zacatecas, eat new food, and learn regional words and songs– all part of the cultural exchange I hoped to experience on my Fulbright year.
     From November to the end of the year, I worked with Fedzac to develop an outline of a feasibility study to explore the possibilities of a new micro-bank.  In January, I have been writing and distributing surveys of financial needs to migrant clubs in the U.S.  Meanwhile, I am reviewing the microfinance sector in Mexico and organizing visits to key organizations for February.  I am also beginning my fieldwork in the most promising community for the new bank, Nochistlán de Mejía.  I am well on track to complete my primary research, field interviews, and compile these projects into a paper.

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From one angle, I am a White (non-hispanic), Under-25 Male with a Bachelor’s Degree but no Graduate Work researching Economic Development in Mexico.  From another angle, I am me.

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Feria Nacional in Zacatecas

     My efforts to get to know people in Zacatecas and the culture were facilitated by the presence of the state fair my first few weeks in Zacatecas.  I went to the fair regularly, listening to Banda music, learning to dance, trying different local foods, and meeting many return migrants eager to practice their English.  In general, I strove to be open to new experiences, conversational, and put myself in as many new situations as I could to experience a different part of the city.  My first few weeks, I regularly visited the museums in Zacatecas and studied in different locations.
     I also learned a great deal about Mexican culture and language from my Spanish courses. I enrolled for three weeks in the Fenix Language Institute with small classes and excellent teachers. We went to hear local concerts together and talked daily about the history of Mexico, Zacatecas, and local culture - all peppered with common regional phrases and sayings.
     I also had the good fortune of joining a basketball team a few weeks into my grant period.  The tortilla shop owner a block away from my house invited me to join his team, Tortillería Guadalupana.  We play every few days in three different leagues, and I’ve been practicing regularly in pick-up games at the parks.   This athletic outlet has been a great way to make friends and learn about the regional customs for basketball.  Sports are a language that transcends borders.

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Fulbright Researchers in Zacatecas 2010-2011
with Efraín Jiminez (left) of Fedzac

I should mention that I feel very fortunate to have two other Fulbright researchers living with me in Zacatecas. It was a coincidence that all three of us applied not only to work in Zacatecas City, but with the same advisor, Dr. Rodolfo García Zamora.  Our advisor has been excellent at working with each of us separately and equally and we all feel like our institutional support is fine.  We each have desk spaces at our university and meet regularly with our professor. However, there has been a great benefit in having fellow researchers and friends to share our Fulbright experience.  We now live together in an apartment, sharing a passion to experience Zacatecas and carry out meaningful projects. The three of us have been able to host several parties for our friends here and connect with a larger community of researchers and foreigners living in Zacatecas City.  If it weren’t for having two other Fulbright fellows here in Zacatecas, I would not have access to such a strong community of friends and social network.

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View of Avenida Juárez in Zacatecas, Mexico

     I feel welcomed in Zacatecas and adjusted quickly to life here.  Many of the changes were logistical adaptations. I’ve never had to ride the bus regularly and here the bus is my principle means of transportation.  Learning all the bus routes, fares, and customs for public transport took a bit of effort.  It also took me a good three weeks to learn the layout of the city.  With so many winding streets defined by the hills and slopes, Zacatecas is a confusing city to navigate.  However, the streets and plazas have now become places to me and I can easily find my way.  I have also adjusted my eating habits in line with local culture.  I now eat lunch at the Mexican hour of 2 or 3 PM and enjoy this schedule.  When I returned home for Christmas, it felt like a late breakfast to be eating lunch at noon.

Food stand where I buy fruit, standing

The customs and traditions of Zacatecas have also changed the way I live and eat, though.  I have enjoyed exploring the culinary traditions of Zacatecas.  I cook regularly with different chilies, nopales, prickly pear fruit, tomatillos, and eat everything with a corn tortilla.  I enjoy listening to Banda music and have found a new love for tamborazo and Joan Sebastian. I can’t hear Banda music or tamborazo without immediately being carried back to the state fair in my mind and dancing a little Banda two-step.
Being a gringo in Zacatecas is a unique experience because so many people have lived in the United States.  I’ve grown used to hearing, “Hey dude!” or “What’s up man?” when I am out at night.  I’ve come to expect these short interactions and enjoy the unique bridge they make between perfect strangers.  I am here to study migration and these kinds of exchanges are welcome and interesting.  The recently returned migrants always finish by saying, “Welcome to my city. I hope you enjoy yourself.” I thank them, and say that I am.

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My first five months have provided a valuable lesson in the nature of research.  I have learned a great deal about a new field and about Zacatecas.  But more importantly, I have learned that uncertainty and perseverance yield confidence.  By wading through doubt, struggling to define my project, and gaining confidence in my skills to carry out research, I have learned a greater sense of patience, humility, and respect for time.

Happy New Year from Mexico!