Farewell Zacatecas

10 months turns out to be a very short time. Today is May 19, 2011 - almost a year and half since I first wrote my advisor here in Zacatecas seeking a university affiliation for my Fulbright application. When I sit back and reflect on how many changes, emotions, challenges, and life shaping experiences those months have held, it leaves me with a profound awe of the fullness of the past, and an excitement for the future. 

Today I fly out from Zacatecas for a summer of music making and time with family in the United States. In early July, however, I will be returning to Mexico this time to Mexico City. I am excited to be working in the microfinance department of the Instituto Mexicano de Investigación de Familia y Población (IMIFAP), a not-for-profit organization promoting economic and social development throughout Mexico. I am looking forward to continuing in the trajectory my Fulbright experience has sent me on, and I am confident my time at IMIFAP will be well spent. 

Noemí de la Torre (SEDEZAC), Daniella Burgi-Palomino,
Aaron Malone, Matt Rolland, Dr. García Zamora (UAZ)

To close out this phase of my Fulbright research, all three of the Fulbright scholars in Zacatecas decided to present our results at the University of Zacatecas this past friday.  The presentations went well, with a small but friendly turn-out. Our advisor, Profesor Rodolfo García Zamora, shared a few meaningful words at the beginning, commenting that he still remembers the days in 2009 when he began receiving our emails about the possibility of working at the UAZ with him. Almost two whole years ago! That made me appreciate the investment we all made in seeking the Fulbright, and all the planning it took to get here. What an adventure. He also observed the change he saw in each of us after we had our first 'visita al campo' (field visit), to Nochistlan back in October. We rightly observed that we returned motivated, moved by the reality of need and interest in migrant-spurred development. He formed words that I had felt, but had not yet expressed. He has been an encouraging advisor, and always had resources to set me down a new direction when I was feeling at a loss. I am very grateful for the warm welcome I have received at the Development Studies department at the university. 

In case you are interested in reading a short summary of my the first phase of research, an english version of my final presentation is available below. 

Microfinance and International Migration: Strengthening Financial Inclusion in Zacatecas

View more presentations from Matt Rolland

Also, there was an article published about our presentations. It was published in three of the local papers. Here's a link to one of them.  I made a basic translation and uploaded to my gmail account. You can download the pdf here. The article has things right for the most part, with the exception of mis-reporting the government institution represented. Noemí de la Torre is the director of the SEDEZAC migrant investment program, Zacatecano Invierte en Zacatecas.  I interviewed her several months back about the program.  SEDEZAC is the state level entity that promotes economic development, whereas SEDESOL is the federal level government agency that runs similar programs, albeit on a national scale. 

Friends at our 'callejoneada' farewell

Nevertheless, a little bit of press feels good. As the article mentions, we have a publishing opportunity! Our professor invited us each to submit articles for a forth-coming book on political economy in Zacatecas. I will be submitting an analysis of the financial sector in Zacatecas, with a focus on how microfinance institutions can help improve the very few financial services available in rural areas, and the general under development of the financial sector in Zacatecas. The book will be published in late August through the university publishing company. 

Adios to our querido Zacatecas. Until next time. 

Over the weekend, we had our farewell 'callejoneada' (parade). We had over 50 people attend and it turned out to be a great way to see all of our friends and acquiantances before leaving. We wanted to say farewell to Zacatecas in a traditional way for the region, and the callejoneada was an event I will never forget. My legs were sore for two days straight from all the dancing. If you'd like to see what the weekend held for use, hear what zacatecan 'banda' music sounds like, and what a 'callejoneada' is, I encourage you to watch a five minute video I made. I hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed living it.

Callejoneando in Zacatecas from Matt Rolland on Vimeo.

A year half over is a cup half full

Today is January 28th, 2011, the exact mid-point of my Fulbright experience. I arrived to Zacatecas on August 28th, five months of books, trips, and meetings ago.  A lot has happened during the past five months. I thought I would share a few thoughts from the mid-term reflection I submitted today to the Institute of International Education.  Reflections are a demanding but very valuable exercise.  I always emerge more focused, more appreciative, and humbled by reviewing the joys and challenges of a part of my life.  A friend once told me that an awareness of time is a fundamental aspect of being human.  I agree, but have learned that there are multiple ways to look at time.  While focusing on the fleeting nature of time can render us depressed and trepid, when we probe our past for growth and challenge, the wheels of time become an engine propelling us into the future.

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I decided to apply for a Fulbright grant to Mexico because I thought the experience would be a meaningful way to follow up on my undergraduate years.  During my four and a half years at the University of Arizona, I learned Spanish, studied migration in southern Mexico, spent a semester in Argentina, and wrote a thesis on the political economy of immigrant remittances.  A Fulbright project in Mexico on microfinance and migration seemed a good way to synthesize these experiences; I could see a new part of Mexico, keep developing my Spanish, and apply the international studies and economics lessons I learned in college.  Looking at the spectrum of my undergraduate experiences and finding a way to apply those experiences was a way to guide that uncertain step forward, beyond the commencement podium with diploma in hand.

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In my Fulbright application, I combined four central goals.  My primary goal is to deepen my understanding of microfinance in Mexico.  Paired with this goal is the desire to learn more about the financial, economic, and developmental aspects of Mexican migration to the United States.  I want to carry out a project that is of value to migrant communities in Zacatecas and the Federación Zacatecana de migrantes en los EEUU (Fedzac).  I measure the value of my project by the potential impact of the ideas and research, thoroughness and integrity of my investigation, and uniqueness of the project among the related literature. I will compile my research into an academic paper, a document for in-house use of Fedzac, and a presentation of my results at Fedzac in May.  Some of my more personal goals include learning about the culture, history, and people of Zacatecas; advance my level of Spanish fluency; and share my Fulbright experience with family and friends through emails, blogs, videos, and music.  On top of all of these, I strive to make my research available and accessible to the wider public.

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Outside of the Development Studies Department, UAZ

     My central motivation in applying for a Fulbright grant was to gain an on the-ground perspective of the economic factors behind Mexican migration to the U.S. and carry out a project that strengthens the economic development of sending regions.  While this motivation has not changed, my project has shifted to match the local needs and opportunities in Zacatecas.  Midway through my grant, my project focus is well refined and has already provided many meaningful cultural experiences, improved my Spanish, and taught me much about Mexico, microfinance, and the nature of research.
     In August, my advisor, Dr. García Zamora, introduced me to Fedzac, the federation of Zacatecan migrant clubs in the U.S., and communicated an opportunity to collaborate with Fedzac on a research project.  Fedzac wanted to explore the possibilities of creating a migrant-funded microfinance bank in Zacatecas, and my professor suggested I make this my research focus.  The opportunity was close to my original interest in financial needs of migrant communities and I eagerly agreed to dedicate my year to this project.
     From August to October, I spent my time reading literature about the global state of microfinance and the microfinance sector in Mexico.  This time was a period of focusing my project and deepening my knowledge of microfinance and migration.  In November, I attended the People’s Global Action conference on Migration and Development in Mexico City.  At this conference, I met with the president of Fedzac, Efraín Jimenez, and connected with Leila Rispens-Noel, a Senior Advisor at a global microfinance network.  Following the conference, I accompanied Leila and Efraín on a trip to visit 3x1 projects in Zacatecas. This trip was a turning point towards realizing my second goal: to shape and carry out a project of direct benefit to migrant communities in Zacatecas.  This trip to a rural area was also a unique opportunity to experience the ‘charro’ culture of Zacatecas, eat new food, and learn regional words and songs– all part of the cultural exchange I hoped to experience on my Fulbright year.
     From November to the end of the year, I worked with Fedzac to develop an outline of a feasibility study to explore the possibilities of a new micro-bank.  In January, I have been writing and distributing surveys of financial needs to migrant clubs in the U.S.  Meanwhile, I am reviewing the microfinance sector in Mexico and organizing visits to key organizations for February.  I am also beginning my fieldwork in the most promising community for the new bank, Nochistlán de Mejía.  I am well on track to complete my primary research, field interviews, and compile these projects into a paper.

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From one angle, I am a White (non-hispanic), Under-25 Male with a Bachelor’s Degree but no Graduate Work researching Economic Development in Mexico.  From another angle, I am me.

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Feria Nacional in Zacatecas

     My efforts to get to know people in Zacatecas and the culture were facilitated by the presence of the state fair my first few weeks in Zacatecas.  I went to the fair regularly, listening to Banda music, learning to dance, trying different local foods, and meeting many return migrants eager to practice their English.  In general, I strove to be open to new experiences, conversational, and put myself in as many new situations as I could to experience a different part of the city.  My first few weeks, I regularly visited the museums in Zacatecas and studied in different locations.
     I also learned a great deal about Mexican culture and language from my Spanish courses. I enrolled for three weeks in the Fenix Language Institute with small classes and excellent teachers. We went to hear local concerts together and talked daily about the history of Mexico, Zacatecas, and local culture - all peppered with common regional phrases and sayings.
     I also had the good fortune of joining a basketball team a few weeks into my grant period.  The tortilla shop owner a block away from my house invited me to join his team, Tortillería Guadalupana.  We play every few days in three different leagues, and I’ve been practicing regularly in pick-up games at the parks.   This athletic outlet has been a great way to make friends and learn about the regional customs for basketball.  Sports are a language that transcends borders.

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Fulbright Researchers in Zacatecas 2010-2011
with Efraín Jiminez (left) of Fedzac

I should mention that I feel very fortunate to have two other Fulbright researchers living with me in Zacatecas. It was a coincidence that all three of us applied not only to work in Zacatecas City, but with the same advisor, Dr. Rodolfo García Zamora.  Our advisor has been excellent at working with each of us separately and equally and we all feel like our institutional support is fine.  We each have desk spaces at our university and meet regularly with our professor. However, there has been a great benefit in having fellow researchers and friends to share our Fulbright experience.  We now live together in an apartment, sharing a passion to experience Zacatecas and carry out meaningful projects. The three of us have been able to host several parties for our friends here and connect with a larger community of researchers and foreigners living in Zacatecas City.  If it weren’t for having two other Fulbright fellows here in Zacatecas, I would not have access to such a strong community of friends and social network.

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View of Avenida Juárez in Zacatecas, Mexico

     I feel welcomed in Zacatecas and adjusted quickly to life here.  Many of the changes were logistical adaptations. I’ve never had to ride the bus regularly and here the bus is my principle means of transportation.  Learning all the bus routes, fares, and customs for public transport took a bit of effort.  It also took me a good three weeks to learn the layout of the city.  With so many winding streets defined by the hills and slopes, Zacatecas is a confusing city to navigate.  However, the streets and plazas have now become places to me and I can easily find my way.  I have also adjusted my eating habits in line with local culture.  I now eat lunch at the Mexican hour of 2 or 3 PM and enjoy this schedule.  When I returned home for Christmas, it felt like a late breakfast to be eating lunch at noon.

Food stand where I buy fruit, standing

The customs and traditions of Zacatecas have also changed the way I live and eat, though.  I have enjoyed exploring the culinary traditions of Zacatecas.  I cook regularly with different chilies, nopales, prickly pear fruit, tomatillos, and eat everything with a corn tortilla.  I enjoy listening to Banda music and have found a new love for tamborazo and Joan Sebastian. I can’t hear Banda music or tamborazo without immediately being carried back to the state fair in my mind and dancing a little Banda two-step.
Being a gringo in Zacatecas is a unique experience because so many people have lived in the United States.  I’ve grown used to hearing, “Hey dude!” or “What’s up man?” when I am out at night.  I’ve come to expect these short interactions and enjoy the unique bridge they make between perfect strangers.  I am here to study migration and these kinds of exchanges are welcome and interesting.  The recently returned migrants always finish by saying, “Welcome to my city. I hope you enjoy yourself.” I thank them, and say that I am.

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My first five months have provided a valuable lesson in the nature of research.  I have learned a great deal about a new field and about Zacatecas.  But more importantly, I have learned that uncertainty and perseverance yield confidence.  By wading through doubt, struggling to define my project, and gaining confidence in my skills to carry out research, I have learned a greater sense of patience, humility, and respect for time.

Happy New Year from Mexico!

Churros Nochistlan

Efrain Jimenez, director of the Federation of Zacatecan migrant clubs, recently shared this nicely made travelogue about Nochistlan. The video was made by David Herrera, General Director of "Mexico de mis Amores", a television program that celebrates Mexican culture, geography, and traditions. The video is in Spanish without subtitles, but has some very nice shots of Nochistlan, Zacatecas, and the Mexican culinary street gem: churros. The narration colorfully weaves together descriptions of a typical Sunday morning in rural Mexico - from the mass in the cathedral to the sweet treats waiting outside to the characters that make those traditions possible. Run time is about 4 minutes.

I visited Nochistlan a few weeks back with Efrain. I'll be going back that way not before too long, partly to find some of these churros.
Enjoy, Matt

Pasajeros con destino: Nochistlan

I recently returned from a whirlwind visit to Nochistlan, a ranching city in southern Zacatecas.  My fellow fulbright researchers and I were invited by the president of FedZac to visit a few migrant projects in the city, experience the ranching culture, and stay with his family. Fedzac is an umbrella organization that represents all the federations of migrant clubs of Zacatecan migrants living in the US.  

3x1 Paving Project in Zoquite

A migrant club, called a 'Hometown Association' is a charitable organization of migrants from the same hometown that organizes cultural events and participates in development projects back home, often through 3x1 para Migrantes.  Nochistlan has one of the highest concentration of 3x1 projects, a unique government program that triples migrants' community investments.  I will write about 3x1 more extensively sometime soon, but it is a very unique program that encourages investment and has realized paving of roads, new museums, schools, electricity, drainage projects - all financed by migrants in the US, the local government, the 

state government, and the federal government (that's why they call it 3 for 1). 

David Jimenez, Basco (M4D), Leila (INAFI),
Daniella, Me, Aaron, Manuel (Fedzac)

Along with my two fellow Fulbright researchers here, we were traveling with two acquaintances we met at the recent migration and development conference, the People's Global Action on Migration Development, and Human Rights, which we attended in Mexico City. One of them, Leila Rispens-Noel, is a very knowledgeable and helpful contact for the future of my project.  She is the Senior Advisor of INAFI, an international organization supporting 'alternative finance' institutions.  Leila is herself a migrant from the Philippines to the Netherlands, and participates actively in development in the Philippines through her own 'hometown association'. She is the president of a group called Wimler Partnership for Social Progress, the foundation she set up to help her hometown and nearby places in Mindanao.  Leila has done a lot of work in migration and microfinance, and is advising a very interesting research project in the European Union.  The 3 year project, Harnessing the Potentials of Migration for Development: Linking Microfinance Institutions and Immigrant Associations,  is equipping microfinance banks to act as money transfer companies for migrant remittances (money they send back to their home country), supporting new remittance-microfinance projects between Europe and Africa.  She was very encouraging about my research here on the possibilities of designing a migrant-funded and migrant-owned microfinance bank in Zacatecas.  Basco, another new friend from the migration conference, is also a Filipino living permanently in the Netherlands, who is working full time in migration and development.  He has worked on women's economic empowerment projects in the Philippines using remittances and is working on improving diaspora organization in the Netherlands, a topic very related to my undergraduate thesis at the University of Arizona. Basco also plays a mean game of billiards, as I found out in Nochistlan, and dances with Michael Jackson moves.  He was a favorite of all the grandchildren at the Jimenez house. 

Our hosts were the parents of Efrain Jimenez, the president of FedZac.  They are a hard-working, well respected family in the community and opened up their house and table to us.  There were some interesting cultural experiences for me as Nochistlan is a much more rural, family-centered community as to what I've experienced up until now in Mexico. The Jimenez family is very large, first of all, as the father, called with the respectful title 'Don', has several brothers and sisters, and he and Efrain's mom themselves have 12 children.  Don Jimenez and his Sra. Jimenez had a clock on the wall with a picture of each child on the hour.  The sense of family inclusion and tradition is very strong there. Every morning, grandchildren would stop by the house to greet their grandparents, the grandchildren kissing them on the hand and then receiving a blessing and a cookie. 

Jimenez ranch in Nochistlan

The father was a very successful cattle trader and increased his business until he was able to purchase over a 1000 acres of land. The land is now divided between the 6 sons, the girls inheriting money from sold land rather than the land itself.  Efrain explained that the tradition is to keep the land in ownership of the men so sons-in-law won't cause strife when ranching on the land. 

In addition to getting to know the Jimenez family, I also ate homemade menudo for breakfast, shot down avocados from a tree with a rifle, drank more mezcal (tequila) than I probably will for the rest of my life, and developed a new love for banda and mariachi music.  When in Zacatecas...

I've uploaded an album of pictures to my facebook profile.  You can see our visit to a migrant funded mezcal factory, a visit to a community museum built with 3x1 funds, some great ranch views and culture, and a few pictures of me playing fiddle for a big family dinner! I played a few fiddle tunes, sang turkey in the straw, and Cotton Eye Joe because they requested a country song. That was the only one I could think of (thanks dad) :)   

                                                                                                   My facebook album of Nochistlan, Zacatecas (available to all). 

And here's a short video of Leather Britches in Mexico. Enjoy